I’m really into the jacket, have take a few hours late at night and early in the morning to work on it. Once again this book is a great reference:
I use the fusible method of interfacing mainly. Both the center front and the side panel are interfaced with a fusible interfacing from my stash. It is of intermediate weight, giving some stability to the fabric without making it stiff.
The interfacing is cut at the roll line and a few millimeters taken off at the lapel side. The opening between the two pieces of interfacing make for an easy folding of the collar. The lapel has an extra layer of interfacing too, with the straight of grain along the roll line.
Afther the a piece of tape is attached at the roll line, at the bottom attached with handstitches, to prevent show through at the right side of the fabric. Turned out to be completely unneccessary in my fabric, as you really can’t see the two stitching lines above the handstitches at the right side of the fabric, even when you know the stitches are there you have to look very, very close to see them.
The zipper basted to the side front with large straight stitches.
Then the side and center front are sewn together. I wanted to use a shoulder stay to give that area more stability. I had to be a bit inventive, as I couldn’t sew it by machine to the facing of the front and I did not have a fusible hair canvas. So I cut the hair canvas piece and stitched a piece of fusible interfacing to it with serpentine stitches, with the adhesive side up.
Then I fused the shoulder stay to the front. I think I’ll make a few catch stitches to secure it to the front facing. The seams of the front also still have to be catchstitched.
After all this the front looks like this. you can see the shaping (pressing on a pressing ham!) and the easy fold of the collar. Hope to continue later tonight.